Sewing-machine.



ONDERDONK.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED MAR. 31. 1913.

Patented M84 14, 1918.

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L. ONDERDONK.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED MAR. 31, [913. 1 ,265,81 2. 4 Patented May 14, 1918.

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6 SHEEISSHEET 3.

i l I 5 11 vomto'c d Mommas L. ONUERDONK- SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED MAR. 31. 1913.

1 ,265,81 2. Patented May 14, 1918.

6 SHEE'ISSHEET 4.

L. ONDERDONK.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED MAR. 31. ISIS.

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Patented May14,1918.

L. O'NDERDONK.

SEWING MACHINE- v A?PLI-CAT|0N FILED MAR- 31, 1913. 1,265,812. Patented May14,1918.

6 SHEEISSHEET wvemr barman TATE PATENT LANSING GMERDGNK, OF NEW YORK, N. Y., ASSIGNOB T UNIGN SPECIAL MACHINE COMPANY, 015 CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, A CORPORATION OF ILLINOIS.

SEWING-MACHINE.

, adapted to form a hem seam.

An object of the invention is to provide a machine of the above character with a trimming mechanism which is located in advance of the folder for trimming the edges of the fabric prior to the entering of the folder.

A further object of the invention is to provide a machine of the above character having a folding guide for the edges of the fabric, which machine is also provided with an upper feeding mechanism adapted to engage the folded edges of the fabric prior to the entering of the folder and during the passing of the edges through the folder, whereby the folded over edges may be fed in unison with the main body of fabric being stitched.

A still further object of the invention is to provide a sewing machine with the folding uide for folding over the edges of the fabric, also with a trimming device operating to trim the edges before they enter the folder, and also with a feeding mechanism operating upon the folded over edges to feed the same to the trimmer and to the folder.

These and other objects will in part be obvious, and will in part be hereinafter more fully disclosed.

In the drawings which show by way of illustration one embodiment of the invention:

Figure 1 is a front view of a machine having my improvements applied thereto;

Fig. 2 is a rear view of the same;'

Fig. 3 is an end view of the same;

Fig. 4: is a transverse sectional view show- Specification of Letters Patent. Patemtgqfl May 4 191%,,

Application filed March 31, 1913.

Serial No. 757,945.

ing the feed bar which. supports and operates the auxiliary feed, dog;

Fig. 5 is a detail in perspective showing the relative position of the presser foot, the trimmer the auxiliary feed dog and the stitching mechanism;

Fig. 6 is a view partly in horizontal section and partly in plan showing the trim mer supporting and operating mechanism;

Fig. 7 is a detail partly in plan and partly in section showing the feed bars for the main and auxiliary feed dogs, and showing the eccentric connection for oscillating the trimmer;

Fig. 8 is an enlarged view transverse of the presser foot at a point in advance of the folder;

Fig. 9 is a front end view of the presser foot showing diagrammatically the position of the trimmer and needle;

Fig. 10 is a transverse sectional view through the presser foot near the delivering end of the folder;

Fig. 11 is a longitudinal sectional view through the presser foot showing the man ner of feeding the folded over portion of the fabric through the folder;

Fig. 12 is a top plan view of the presser foot;

Fig. 13 is a bottom plan view thereof;

Fig. 14 is a perspective view of the folder detached from the presser foot;

Fig. 15 is a diagrammatic view showing a hem seam formed on my improved machine.

The sewing machine to which my invention is applied consists of a supporting bed 1 from which rises a standard 2 carrying an overhanging arm 3. A needle bar i is reciprocated in the forward end of the overhanging arm 3 by a lever 5 which is oscillated about its support by a link 6, which cooperates with an eccentric on the main shaft 7, which in turn is rotated by the usual belt wheel 8. Mounted at the lower end of the needle bar 4 is a needle 9. Cooperating with the needle beneath the work support is a thread carrying looper 10, see Fig. 3. This looper is oscillated through a link 11, which is connected to a needle lever extension 12. The thread controllers for the needle thread screws 22 "pass and also for the looper hread are of usual construction will not be described.

Mounted in the forvvor end oi the overhanging arm 3 is pres er bar 13 WlllCll carries a presser foot 1: at the lower end thereof. The presser bar is normally springfabric oassing underlie t formed with a for- At one a h c brought up through the slot 1? and folded s a P over on to the upper race or toe and presser foot. The portion 18 of the main presser loot, separated therefrom by 17, is rigid with the foot and the inner Wall 19 thereoi serves as a folding Wall for turn ing up and holding the folded over edges of the fabric. la lcunted on the portion 18 of the presser foot is a folder 20. This folder is provided W su'tahle openings 21 I th ough the openings secure said folder firmly to the portion 18 of the presser root. The folder projects laterally from the he er 18 over the main is hent downwardly at 23 and thence l *dly at so as underlie the L on of the folder. re presser foot is slightly ti tion of th presser l 1 m foot and, t 1%, the

'2 1 L so. slightly or the root.

Q F P' N i. z esser foot is cut away, as at 2o see e so the lower 2% of folder Mounted on the main portion of the cresser foot is a rearwardly extending rigid t which projects into the folder.

This tongue is sligh' sapered so as to conform with the taper of the folder and it edges of the tahric hich led up 1 L0 the folder are ioldeo arou o. the guc.

is also provided With a ne'- face of th linger 26. This'trir ming memcot 27, through Wlliffiil the needle 'JJ 1- 3 LL '1 i w.

toot toe edges passing underneath the the slot mmed prior to the edges oassirq rolder Where they are turned under- 11 the linger 26, and subsequently led to stitching mechanism.

116 t form of a shearing blade is rigidly fastened to an arm 30. This arm 80 is one arm of a reel: lever mounted to swing on a pivot stud 31, carried by the presser foot. The presser foot is iormed with a recess in which the stud 31 15 located, and a set screw 32 engages the stud and holds the same in fixed position in said foot. The outer end of the stud 31 is formed with a and the recess in the press-er foot is enlarged to form a pocket for a spring 33 which bears against the rock lever carrying the trimmer blade and forces said roclr lever outwardly, thus holding the trimmer members yieldingly in contact. The head on the end of the stud limits the movement of he spring 33. The rock lever carrying the trimming member is oscillated by a link connected at one end to a hall stud carried by the upwardly projecting arm 35 of the rock lever and. connected at its other end to a hall stud carried by an arm 38, see Fig. 3. The arm 36 is secured on the outer end of a shaft 87 see Fig. 2. This shaft 57 is mounted in a bracket 38 carried at the forward end of the overhanging arm 3, and 1h vsearing 89 attached to the standard 2 of the shaft by the spring.

.uooseiy mounted on the snare 3? 15 a collar l2. This collar is provided with a down Wardly projecting arm d3 which is connected to an eccentric strap 4% cooperating With the eccentric on the main shaft 7. As the main shaft rotates the arm 43 will he oscillated= i e collar 42 also carries an outwardly projecting arm l5. which is forked at its for were end as shown in ig, 1.

Fixed to the shaft 3? is an outwardly projecting" arm 4C6. This at its forward end is projected laterally and carries a stud having a cross headed at its lower end. This cross head is shaped so as to pass freely through the forked end er the arm d5 when in one goosition and to hold the arm 45 firmly locked to the arm 46 When turned at right rimming member 29 which is in the When the arm a6 is disconnected from the arm 45 it may be raised, thus oscillating the shaft 37, so as to raise the movable trimmer.

of the arm 51 is projected laterally and provided with a groove for this purpose. The spring 40allows the shaft 37 to move endwise suficiently to bring the arm 51 into engagement with the holding lug.

From the above description it will be ap parent that I have provided a trimming pivotal point 54:.

mechanism which will operate upon the folded over edges of the material to trim the same in advance of the edges entering the folder. The arm 35 of the rock shaft supporting the trimming member is preferably so disposed that the center 53 of the pivotal connection between the arm and the link 34 is substantially in the same horizontal plane as the center 54 between the arm 36 and the link 34. The trimmer, as above noted, is mounted on the presser foot and will rise and fall with the presser foot, as the fabric varies in thickness, and as the lower feeding member forces the fabric against the foot for its feeding action. Inasmuch as these pivotal centers 53 and 5a are substantially in the same horizontal plane, these move ments of the presser foot will impart substantially no movement to the trimmer member. Inother words, the trimmer member has a substantially fixed-working position relative to the stationary member. Furthermore, when the presser foot is raised for the insertion of the fabric underneath the same, the pivotal point 53 will be carried above the This movement of the pivotal point 53 will tend to turn the rock shaft carrying the trimmer member so as to further raise the movable member away from the stationary member, and, as a consequence, facilitate the insertion of the material underneath the trimmer member ready for the trimming and feeding of the same to the stitching mechanism.

The material is fed to the stitching mechanism by a main feed dog 55. This feed member is carried by the main feed bar 56 (see Fig. 7 which is pivoted to a feed rocker 57, which, in turn, is oscillated back and forth by the usual mechanism. The feed bar 56 is also raised and lowered by an eccentrio on the main shaft 7.

As a means for carrying the folded over edges of the; fabricto the trimmer and through the folder to the stitching mechanism, I have provided an auxiliary feed dog 58. This feed dog is carried-by a feed bar 59." Said feed bar is provided with an upwardly projecting bracket 60, which is formed with a rib 61 and said auxiliary feed dog is secured to the rib by a screw 62, so that said feed dog may be adjusted vertically. The feed bar 59 is pivoted at its rear end to the feed rocker 57 and, therefore, the auxiliary feed dog will move back and forth in unison with the main feed dog.

This auxiliary feed dog is formed with two feeding portions 63 and 6st. The forward feeding portion 63 extends in front of the folder 20 and over the presser foot so as to engage the folded over edges of the fabric and feed the same to the trimmer and into the folder. Said feeding portion of the auxiliary feed dog cooperates with the upper face of the presser foot during its feeding action. The folder 20 is formed with a rectangular slot 65 and the feeding portion 64 of the auxiliary feed dog projects through said slot and engages the folded 'over edges and carries the same through the folder. During this action of the auxiliary feed dog, the feeding portion 6% cooperates with the supporting tongue 26 carried by the presser foot, and projects rearwardly into the folder as above described. It will be apparent, therefore, that I have provided a feeding mechanism which not only engages the under face of the material being hemmed and stitched into a seam, but which also engages the upper face of the folded over edges and positively carries said folded over edges to the trimmer and into the folder and to the stitching mechanism. As the timing of the feeding members is the same, the folded over edges and the body of the fabric will be fed simultaneously and evenly to the stitching mechanism. This enables the startin of the hem seam without any dragging hack of the folded over edges until they reach the stitching mechanism, where they are stitched to the body fabric and carried along as the body fabric is fed from the machine by the under feed.

As a means for raising the auxiliary feed dog to permit the insertion of the material, I have provided the bracket 60 with an upwardly projecting? arm 67, which has a laterally projecting head 68 at its upper end. The presser foot is provided with a laterally projecting pin 69 which is rigidly attached to the foot and projects laterally underneath the overhanging head 68. When the presser foot is raised this pin 69 will engage the head 68 and raise the auxiliary feed dog with the presser foot. In order to .permit the auxiliary feed dog to be raised, as above described, I have formed the feed bar 59 with a downwardly projecting lug 70. An arm 71 is pivoted to said 111 and projects underneath the eccentric %2, which raises and lowers the feed bar 59. A post 73 carried by the arm 71 extends upwardly through a slot in the feed noted the 1 tie folded underey are presented. to the s itching order to iacflita-fie the passzese edges underneath the foot thickness in the fabric mecheni T have provided "the pressez' foot a elding session 76. This yieidmg seetlon 1s finally the es the folded undee ed es ef 1; use moi- 1s reeesse to Pen J? zecelve see 7 eldizlg semen in and ems yielding section is errieii by me post extendizzg upwardly socket W, A

8 suvrounds and yieidingly 9 section 1 6 mews-1c; mto eonfoz'med Wi a jeets inio groove and limies the downmevemen'sb of fine seeeien 7%, so that emefiy held flush with lower fees foot, The peeser foot in feon; of section 56. is Assessed so as to forms i-"uidewe for foidei undez l Jo v e 1 edges as LhG pass-120m we so e1" is she stitehing meeeenism underneath the yieldgoozafiwn 1 6.

greeve pie '79 p1 osewing n chine including in eombimficion feet, foider earned by $216 resser te s for eldmg over an edge 31 smopeetee. by seld presser foot for fir1m idea-over edge o1 iahrlc 111 eomnee of folder, afeecimg mecha- J3 1 1 m fer gng the widest-over edge 2mm 8. A ev/ing machine inelmi g combinamen shtch farming mechamsm, a resser 1 1 J1 w, .LGT ieidmg over an eoge Oi m 110, a whnmer suyper'lcedby said peessef foou trim- 0. "83 Of 113m including a, member fixes to e e a leading mechamsm fer teeding 1 A sewing machine ineiudng in combi- 5m, 21 folder carried by said Presser feet fer folding eve? an edge of fsflnmc a trlmmer filing folded-wa er edge of fabric in an? of the foider, said tnmmmg mechasmeh forming mechanism, a presses fsbrie, s Mimi-see feefivlng the -me inreugh the fokier.

feet a foider caused by said presser foot mm H the famed-over ege 0 feet and a member pivofied to the pressee eorle,

on streak ferming mechanism, a presser suppertedby said resser fooii for trimincludmg a member fixed to the Presser we fabric, said feeding mechanism include eed dog and upper deg upper feed do having and a portion extending through a slot in the folder for engaging the material as it passes through the folder.

5. A sewing machine including in combination stitch forming mechanism, a presser foot having a vertical slot formed therein, through which the edge of the fabric may be led, a folder carried by the presser foot for folding over said edge, a fixed tongue carried by the presser foot and extending into the folder, around which said edge is folded, and a feed dog engaging said fabric on said. tongue between the ends of the folder for feeding the folded-over edge of the fabric through the folder.

6. A sewing machine including in combination stitch forming mechanism, a presser foot having a vertical slot formed therein, through which the edge of the fabric may be led, a folder carried by the presscr foot for folding over said edge, a fixed tongue carried by the presser foot and extending into the folder, around which said edge is folded, and a feed dog adapted to engage said fabric on said tongue for feeding the folded-over edge of the fabric through the folder, said feed dog having a portion engaging the fabric in advance of the folder, and a portion extending through a slot in the upper face of the folder for engaging the fabric in the folder.

7. A sewing machine including in combination stitch forming mechanism, a presser foot having a vertical slot formed therein,

through which the edge of the fabric may be led, a folder carried by'the presser foot for folding over said edge, a fixed tongue carried by the presser foot and extending into the folder. around which said edge is folded, and a feed dog adapted to engage said fabric on said tongue for feeding the folded-over edge of the fabric through the folder, said feed dog having a portion engaging the fabric in advance of the folder, and a portion extending through a slot in the upper face of the folder for engaging the fabric in the folder, and a trimmer carried by the presser foot, and trimming said folded-over edge in advance of the folder.

8. A sewing machine including in combination stitch forming mechanism, a presser foot having a vertical slot formed therein, through which the edge of the fabric may be led, a folder carried by the presser foot for folding over said edge, a fixed tongue carried by the presser foot and extending into the folder around which said edge is folded, means for engaging the folded over edge intermediate the ends of the folder, and a trimming mechanism carried by said presser foot, said trimming mechanism including a stationary member locatedat one side of said folder and extending to a point in advance thereof, and a movable member carried by said presser foot, and coiiperating with the stationary member to trim the edge in advance of the folder.

9. A sewing machine including in combination stitch forming mechanism, a Presser foot having a vertical slot and. a recess in its upper face leading to said slot, a folder mounted on said presser foot, said folder being bent downwardly and thence laterally and positioned in said recess for receiving.

and folding over an edge of fabric led through said vertical slot, a fixed tongue carried by the presser foot and extending into said folder, over which said edge is folded, means for engaging the folded over edge intermediate the ends of the folder and a trimming mechanism in advance of the folder for trimming said folded-over edge.

10. A sewing machine including in combination stitch forming mechanism, a. presser foot having a vertical slotand a recess in its upper face leading to said slot, a folder mounted on said presser foot, said folder being bent downwardly and thence laterally and positioned in said recess for receiving and folding over an edge of fabric led through said vertical slot, a fixed tongue carried by the presser foot and extending into said folder, over which said edge is folded, means for engaging the folded over edge intermediate the ends of the folder, and a trimming mechanism including a fixed member secured in a recess in the upper face of said presser foot, at one side of said folder and extending to a point in advance thereof, a movable trimmer member carried by said presser foot, and cooperating with said stationary member to trim the foldedover edge in advance of the folder.

11. A sewing machine including in combination stitch forming mechanism, a presser foot having a vertical slot and a recess in its upper face leading to said slot, a folder mounted on said presser foot, said folder being bent downwardly and thence laterally and positioned in said recess for receiving and folding over an edge of fabric led through said vertical slot, a fixed tongue carried by the presser foot and extending into said folder, over which said edge is folded, a main feeding device and a feeding device for engaging and feeding the foldedover edge through the folder in unison with said main feeding device.

12. A sewing machine including in combination stitch forming mechanism, a presser foot having a vertical slot and a recess in its upper face leading to said slot, a folder mounted on said presser foot, said folder being bent downwardly and thence laterally and positioned in said recess for receiving and folding over an edge of fabric led through said vertical slot, a fixed tongue carried by the presser foot and extending into said folder, over which said edge is folded, and a feeding device having a feedtoo presser. foot having a guide around which the fabric is passed, said main feeding device acting upon the fabric passing underneath the guide, said supplemental feeding device acting upon the fabric-passing above the guide, said trimming device being located in advance of the guide and acting upon the fabric also passing above the guide.

23. A sewing machine including in combination stitch forming mechanism, a. presser foot, a trimming device co-acting with said presser foot, a flexible connection between said trimming device and its operating mechanism, a feeding device co-acting with I said presser foot and a second flexible connection between said feeding device and its operating mechanism whereby the said presser foot, the trimming device and feeding device can be raised simultaneously without destroying their operating connections.

In testimony whereof, I aifix my signature in the presence of two witnesses.

LANSING ONDERDONK.

Witnesses:

R. S. ()SWALD, J. H. HOWELL. 

